Poros – a gem in the Saronic Gulf

Johan Maier

Anyone starting their sailing trip in Athens often faces the same question: where should they spend their first night? Preferably not too far away, but still far enough from the hustle and bustle of the big city. For years, the answer given by many experienced sailors has been: Poros.

This small island lies just around 25 nautical miles south-west of Athens, making it an ideal first or final destination in the Saronic Gulf. Yet Poros is far more than just a convenient stopover. The island is considered the greenest in the entire Saronic Gulf. Instead of barren hills, pine forests dominate the landscape, stretching right down to the coast. As soon as you enter the narrow strait between Poros and the Peloponnese, there’s almost a fjord-like atmosphere: green, lush slopes, small houses by the water and, everywhere, the hustle and bustle of sailors.

The harbour of Poros is particularly popular with sailors, not least because of its reasonable prices. There are both alongside berths directly on the promenade and stern-anchor berths. Especially in the evening, when the sun disappears behind the hills and the cafés set up their tables by the water, an atmosphere develops that tempts many crews to stay longer than originally planned. A new outer pier is currently under construction, which will create space for more boats.

Poros has plenty to offer in terms of cuisine. Instead of large tourist chains, you’ll find numerous local restaurants serving Greek cuisine. Particularly popular are the Oasis, right on the promenade; the Apagio, situated slightly higher up with a lovely view of the water; and the family-run Grecque Familiale tavern. Here you can enjoy typical Greek cuisine at reasonable prices, usually whilst sitting with a direct view of the boats passing by.

If you don’t want to head back to the boat straight after dinner, there are plenty of options. Whilst the island isn’t exactly a party hotspot, there are a few bars where you can round off the evening in a relaxed atmosphere. The Malibu Bar is particularly well-known and has been a popular meeting place for sailors and locals for years. Nevertheless, Poros generally remains pleasantly quiet and feels much more relaxed than some of the busier islands.

Away from the harbour, the island reveals what is perhaps its most beautiful side. The few roads can be easily explored by scooter or quad bike. Time and again, views over the Saronic Gulf open up, small chapels are tucked away amongst pine forests, and the next bathing cove is often just around the bend.

The numerous anchorages around the island are particularly charming. Here, you can either anchor freely or moor with a shore line. A special tip is Russian Bay, with its sheltered mooring and crystal-clear water. However, in many bays you should keep an eye on the swell caused by passing ferries, which can be particularly noticeable during the day.

If you want to do your washing during the trip, there’s a laundry service right in the village – around €15.
Electricity and water are also available at the harbour and can be purchased in various packages. However, the electricity supply does not always provide a stable 230 volts. This can therefore occasionally cause problems, particularly with higher-power appliances such as on-board air conditioning systems.

Poros is not an island of superlatives. That is precisely what gives it its charm. The mix of green countryside, good restaurants, laid-back harbour life and numerous anchorages makes it a place where a planned one-night stay can quickly turn into two or three.