Staniel Cay – an oasis in paradise

Johan Maier

We are halfway through the Exumas – for many, the most beautiful islands in the American Caribbean. Rarely have I seen such a blaze of colour in the water and on land. Turquoise lagoons, dazzling white sandbanks and lush green islands form a backdrop that is hard to beat.

If you are heading towards Black Point on your trip, Staniel Cay is one of the best places to stop in the region. This small town offers infrastructure that is otherwise rarely found in the Exumas. Although the marina is modest in size and should be reserved a few days in advance, it offers moorings for sailing boats, catamarans, medium-sized motorboats and larger yachts.

A special experience awaits you as soon as you moor: nurse sharks regularly swim between the boats in the marina. They are used to humans and sometimes even allow themselves to be touched – but of course, it is important to treat the animals with respect and be careful with your fingers.

The heart of the marina is the Staniel Cay Yacht Club. The atmosphere is reminiscent of a quaint sports bar with a pool table and good drinks, but it is also a restaurant and souvenir shop. The lobster is highly recommended, the shrimp affogato less so. A little tip: bring something to put on – the air conditioning here is usually running at full blast.

There is electricity and water at the jetty, as well as a petrol station. For a 40-foot catamaran, the price for a berth is around USD 220. Alternatively, there are buoys in the bay for around USD 70, but these cannot be reserved. Rubbish disposal is also available (USD 8 per bag), and there is a laundry service – albeit at rather high prices.

The island itself is also worth a stroll. A few small shops offer food and everyday necessities, but prices are high as most goods are flown in. Burke’s Convenience Store is recommended – if you make a large purchase, they will even take you back to the marina in a golf cart.

Small aeroplanes regularly take off and land at the local airfield on Staniel Cay. Nevertheless, air traffic is limited, and there is hardly any disturbing aircraft noise.

An absolute highlight is located right in the bay: the famous Thunderball Grotto, known from several James Bond films. You can anchor south of it; be sure to navigate through the northern entrance to the bay. The grotto is particularly impressive at low tide and in daylight, when the sunlight shines through the openings in the rock. However, strong currents can occur here at times, so this spot is not suitable for inexperienced swimmers.

Finally, end the day at the Yacht Club with a drink in the sports bar and conversations with other sailors from all over the world. Staniel Cay is one of those places where it’s easy to stay longer than planned – and definitely worth a visit.